Great White Shark Expedition with Rodney Fox off the Coast of South Australia
As scary as it sounds, every underwater photographer’s dream is to organically meet a great white shark in the open ocean while diving. Chances are slim, and most of us will likely never have the privilege to witness the ocean’s top predator, even when diving daily in shark infested waters such as South Africa or even Australia.
About three years ago, I was planning my trip to the Guadalupe Islands, probably the best place on Earth at the time, to cage dive with Great Whites and photograph them in perfect conditions. When the pandemic hit the world, I had to postpone the trip, and the following year, the Mexican government decided to shut down shark tourism in the park.
Today, Rodney Fox in South Australia is the only operator on this planet offering multi-day great white shark cage diving expeditions catered for scuba certified shark aficionados.
As part of our 6 weeks long multi-destination dive trip, after Cuba and Raja Ampat, our trip came to an end and it all began in Port Lincoln, a small coastal city located off the coast of South Australia - the gateway to the Neptune Islands.
One of the many resident great white sharks of the Neptune Islands, photographed during our trip with Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions.
How to get to the Neptune Islands
Getting to the Neptune Islands involves a journey that takes you through some of South Australia's most scenic regions. The first step is to travel to Adelaide, the capital city of South Australia.
Adelaide is well-connected with major domestic and international airports, making it accessible for travelers from around the world. Upon arrival in Adelaide, I highly recommend enjoying the city's vibrant culture and cuisine before embarking on the next leg of your adventure.
From Adelaide, you will need to travel to Port Lincoln, which serves as the gateway to the Neptune Islands. There are a few options for making this journey. The most convenient and quickest method is to take a domestic flight from Adelaide Airport to Port Lincoln Airport, a flight that typically lasts about 50 minutes. Multiple daily flights are available and operated by regional airlines.
Exploring Port Lincoln begins with a scenic flight aboard Qantas, leading us to the peaceful Marina Hotel.
Alternatively, for those who prefer a more scenic route, a road trip from Adelaide to Port Lincoln offers a picturesque drive through the rolling landscapes and coastal regions of the Eyre Peninsula. This journey spans approximately 650 kilometers and can take about 7 to 8 hours by car.
Once in Port Lincoln, the final leg of the journey involves boarding the Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions vessel. The departure point is typically the Marina Hotel, where you will meet the expedition team and fellow adventurers. From Port Lincoln, the vessel sets sail towards the Neptune Islands, located about 70 kilometers south of the mainland.
The voyage usually takes around 2 to 3 hours, depending on sea conditions, and offers a chance to take in the stunning ocean views and watch for marine wildlife along the way. Make sure to take seasick pills if you’re sensitive to seasickness as this crossing is on the open ocean and can be the most challenging depending on the conditions.
Serenity of the shimmering sea on our journey to the Neptune Islands. Every wave tells a story.
Best time to visit the Neptune Islands
The best time to visit the Neptune Islands for diving, especially for shark encounters with Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions, depends on the specific experience you seek.
The Neptune Islands are renowned for their great white shark populations, and the optimal times to visit can vary based on shark behavior and weather conditions. Generally, the prime periods for visiting are as follows:
Peak Shark Season: April to October
April to June: During these months, the Neptune Islands see a significant presence of large female great white sharks. These apex predators are often spotted in the area as they follow the migration of seals. This period is ideal if you are keen to witness the grandeur and majesty of some of the biggest sharks in the ocean.
July to October: This timeframe marks another excellent period for shark sightings. The cooler water temperatures attract great white sharks, making encounters more frequent and predictable. The visibility underwater is typically good during these months, enhancing the overall diving experience. This period is also when young male sharks are more commonly seen, offering a diverse range of interactions.
Other Considerations
There are also other factors to keep in mind while planning your trip.
Weather and Sea Conditions: The weather in South Australia can vary, but the months from April to October generally offer stable conditions suitable for diving. However, it’s essential to be prepared for cooler water temperatures, especially in the later months, so appropriate thermal protection is necessary.
Marine Life: Beyond great white sharks, these months also provide opportunities to observe other marine life. The surrounding waters of the Neptune Islands are teeming with biodiversity, including various fish species, sea lions, and other marine creatures that contribute to the rich underwater ecosystem.
Crowd Levels: While the peak season offers the best chances for shark encounters, it can also be a popular time for tourists. Booking your expedition in advance is advisable to secure your spot and ensure a well-organized trip.
Off-Peak Season: November to March
Visiting during the off-peak months from November to March can still be rewarding. During this period, shark sightings can be less predictable, but the warmer weather and calmer seas make for pleasant travel and diving conditions. The diversity of marine life remains impressive, and the experience can be more tranquil with fewer tourists.
Exploring nearby islands with my favorite person. February brought clear skies and warm sun to set the stage for a great trip.
A Little Bit About Rodney Fox
Rodney Fox is an incredible character with an amazing story. Before I get into the details of my dive, I wanted to share some of his story, as it is really part of what makes the trip so special.
History of the company
Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions boasts a remarkable history rooted in both personal triumph and marine conservation.
The company was founded by Rodney Fox, a legendary figure in the world of shark research and conservation, whose encounter with a great white shark in 1963 nearly cost him his life but ultimately inspired a lifelong dedication to these majestic creatures. Surviving one of the most famous shark attacks, Rodney turned his experience into a mission to better understand and protect great white sharks.
He pioneered the development of the shark cage, enabling close yet safe underwater observations that have transformed our understanding of shark behavior. Established in 1965, Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions has since become a leading authority in shark ecotourism, offering unparalleled opportunities for divers to witness great white sharks in their natural habitat.
The expeditions not only provide thrilling encounters but also support ongoing research and conservation efforts, ensuring the preservation of shark populations and their ecosystems. Today, Rodney Fox's legacy continues through the dedicated work of his son, Andrew Fox, who upholds the family tradition of promoting shark awareness and marine conservation through education, research, and unforgettable diving experiences. Andrew is also an expert in great white shark photography.
The Vessel
The 32m MV. Rodney Fox vessel, integral to the renowned Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions, is a state-of-the-art boat designed to provide both comfort and safety for its passengers while facilitating unforgettable marine adventures.
Purpose-built for shark diving, the vessel is equipped with advanced navigation and safety systems, ensuring smooth and secure voyages to the Neptune Islands. Onboard, guests find well-appointed cabins, a spacious dining area, and ample deck space for relaxation and socializing.
The vessel's diving platform is expertly designed for easy entry and exit from the water, while the custom shark cages offer unobstructed views for observing great white sharks up close. Additionally, the vessel is staffed by a team of experienced and knowledgeable crew members, including marine biologists and dive professionals, who ensure a safe, educational, and thrilling experience for all guests.
MV. Rodney Fox, our home for almost a week. The custom made surface shark cage is secured safely at the back of the boat.
Characteristic of Great White Sharks
Great white sharks (Carcharodon carcharias) are among the most iconic and formidable predators in the ocean, known for their impressive size, power, and distinctive features.
These apex predators can grow up to 20 feet in length and weigh over 5,000 pounds, with females generally larger than males. Great whites are characterized by their robust, torpedo-shaped bodies, which allow them to swim at speeds of up to 25 miles per hour. Their coloration, featuring a stark contrast between the dark grey or blue dorsal side and the white underside, provides effective camouflage in the water.
They possess a highly acute sense of smell, capable of detecting a single drop of blood in millions of gallons of water, and their eyes are adapted to low-light conditions, aiding in hunting during both day and night.
Equipped with multiple rows of serrated, triangular teeth, great whites can tear through flesh and bone with ease.
Their hunting strategy often involves a powerful initial strike from below, taking prey by surprise. Despite their fearsome reputation, great white sharks are also known for their curiosity and complex social behaviors, which continue to be subjects of extensive research and fascination.
One of the resident great white sharks at the Neptune islands, photographed from the bottom cage.
The Ultimate Cage Diving Experience with Rodney Fox Expeditions
Cage diving is a truly once in a lifetime kind of experience, and there’s no better place than with Rodney Fox Expeditions.
Surface Cage vs. Bottom Cage
What makes Rodney Fox unique is that they are currently the only operator in the world offering surface and bottom cage diving. - Yep, you heard that right - bottom cage diving, AKA being in a cage on the ocean floor.
The choice between the surface cage and the bottom cage depends on the sea conditions and the behavior of the sharks. The surface cage is typically more accessible, floating just beneath the waves, but it can be particularly challenging when the water is choppy.
Divers in the surface cage can find themselves battling against the surge, making it a physically demanding experience.
The best time to utilize the surface cage is during the transition periods when groups in the bottom cage are ascending for their safety stops. At these moments, sharks often follow the cage to the surface, providing spectacular viewing opportunities.
A majestic shark glides past the bottom cage, while the surface cage looms above during a thrilling descent.
The bottom cage, on the other hand, offers a unique and tranquil perspective of the great whites. As the cage descends to the ocean floor, typically between 20 and 30 meters deep, the sharks often follow, leaving behind their hunting behavior seen at the surface.
Here, in the depths, the sharks appear more relaxed and exhibit natural behaviors, offering a more intimate and serene interaction. The bottom cage requires scuba certification.
Gearing Up
Preparing for a dive with Rodney Fox Expeditions requires considerable gear, particularly weights, to counterbalance the buoyancy at depth.
Fortunately, Rodney Fox provides their own specialized weight harness system integrated with tanks, eliminating the need for divers to bring their own BCDs. This system ensures divers are properly weighted and balanced, allowing them to focus on the experience rather than their equipment.
As the anticipation builds, the crew helps us gear up and we slide into the cage, ready to experience the thrill of shark diving the Rodney Fox way.
The Cage Diving Experience
The diving process is meticulously organized, with the Rodney Fox crew dividing participants into small groups of two or three. This ensures that everyone gets ample time in the cages, typically allowing for three to four dives per day, depending on the number of guests and prevailing sea conditions.
Each dive lasts approximately 25 to 35 minutes, providing plenty of time to marvel at the great whites up close.
Once inside the cage, divers can find it a tight squeeze – almost like sardines in a can. Photographing these magnificent creatures adds an extra layer of challenge.
The limited space in the cage, combined with the presence of numerous fish attracted by the chumming, makes handling large camera gear, wide domes and strobes particularly tricky. However, the payoff is immense, with the potential for stunning, close-up images of the ocean's apex predators.
Inside the cage, as we were descending into the deep blue, one of the crew members started chumming to attract nearby sharks.
A Unique Perspective
The bottom cage dives offer a truly unique vantage point. While the surface cage encounters often show sharks in an alert, hunting mode, the bottom cage reveals a different side of these creatures. At depth, the great whites are calmer and more inquisitive, providing an authentic glimpse into their natural behavior.
This contrast between the surface and the bottom experiences enriches the overall adventure, making it a comprehensive encounter with one of the ocean's most fascinating inhabitants.
Face-to-face with our very first great white shark—it felt like time stood still as this formidable predator swam by.
Photographing Australian Seals at Hopkins Island
As part of the Rodney Fox Expedition, guests are treated to an unforgettable experience of swimming with the playful Australian Seals at Hopkins Island. This adventure offers a delightful contrast to the thrilling shark encounters, showcasing the curious and energetic nature of these marine mammals.
Playful Encounters
Australian Seals are known for their playful demeanor, often approaching divers with a mix of curiosity and excitement.
They are highly interactive and seem to enjoy engaging with humans in the water. Whether it's performing acrobatic flips or darting around at high speeds, these seals provide endless entertainment and exceptional photo opportunities.
Swimming with seals—once you manage to spark their curiosity, they won’t take their eyes off you.
Free Diving vs. Scuba Diving
Guests have the option to either free dive or scuba dive with the seals. Personally, I recommend free diving, as it requires less gear and allows for greater freedom of movement. This is especially beneficial when interacting with such agile creatures.
Free diving enables you to perform various tricks, such as backflips and kicks, which the seals love to mimic.
The more dynamic and entertaining you are, the more likely the seals are to stay and play around you or with you, enhancing your overall experience and increasing your chance for photographic opportunities.
Exhausted but accomplished—a quick snapshot of me barely making it out of the water after trying to keep up with the local Australian seals.
Energetic Companions
Seals are incredibly energetic and keeping up with their swift movements can be challenging. They zip through the water with remarkable agility, making each encounter a lively and invigorating experience.
The water at Hopkins Island is relatively shallow, about 3-4 meters at most, which allows for easy and safe exploration without the concern of deeper waters or the presence of sharks.
Photography Tips
When photographing these lively creatures, it’s best to use ambient light as much as possible. The shallow waters provide ample natural light, making it easier to capture clear, vibrant images.
Given the seals' rapid movements, using high shutter speed is crucial to freeze the action and avoid motion blur. This ensures you can capture the playful antics and expressions of the seals with clarity and precision.
Australian seals are so fast, they can easily outmaneuver sharks. You will only have a fraction of a second to photograph them.
Other Wildlife Encounters
While the main attraction of the Neptune Islands is undoubtedly the great white sharks, the area also offers an array of other fascinating wildlife encounters. One of the most delightful sights on these rugged islands is the rock wallaby, which inhabits the rocky shores. These agile marsupials are well-adapted to the rugged terrain, often seen hopping gracefully among the rocks.
Bird enthusiasts will also find the Neptune Islands a rewarding destination. Some of the most common bird species include the white-bellied sea eagle, Pacific gull, and the sooty oystercatcher. These birds are frequently seen soaring above the islands or perched along the rocky cliffs, their calls adding a symphonic backdrop to the natural beauty of the region.
Seagulls and rock wallabies—just a few examples of the unique wildlife around the Neptune Islands.
