We finished off our South African remote ‘work and dive’ vacation with Cape Town.

I visited Cape Town many years ago to do cage diving with great white sharks, and now that I had more experience, an undying passion for underwater photography, and a crazy obsession for sharks, Cape Town was on top of my dive destination list to revisit one day.

My friend and I rented a home on Airbnb for about a month. That gave us enough time to dive around and enjoy Cape Town’s captivating beauty and rich culture.

Getting around Cape Town

In my opinion, the easiest and safest way to get around Cape Town is to travel by taxi. I would advise against public transport, especially at night or dusk.

Uber is relatively cheap in Cape Town, convenient, and I believe is the easy way to get around the city. Another option would be renting a car.

Is Cape Town safe?

I hear this question a lot from people around me.

Generally, it’s true that Cape Town’s charming beauty is overshadowed by high crime rates. Cape Town, like many cities around the world, has areas with varying levels of safety.

While some neighborhoods are considered safe and welcoming for residents and visitors, others may experience higher crime rates.

Taking common-sense precautions, staying informed, and being aware of your surroundings contribute to a positive visit.

Indian vs. Atlantic Ocean

South Africa is unique in that it has coastlines along both the Indian Ocean to the east and the Atlantic Ocean to the west.

The coastal regions on each side offer distinct characteristics, landscapes, and marine environments. Each side has to offer something different. As opposed to Aliwal Shoal, which is surrounded by the warmer Indian Ocean, the water around Cape Town is colder, and visibility is often limited.

However, the variety of underwater habitats and wildlife renders it highly worthwhile!

To keep ourselves warm, we used full 7mm wetsuits with hoodies, gloves, and boots, but others opted for dry suits. I have to admit, I was jealous of those warmer drysuits on a few occasions.

Best Time To Dive In Cape Town

The best time to dive in Cape Town is generally during the austral summer months, which span from December to February.

During this period, the weather is warmer, and sea temperatures are relatively more comfortable for diving. Sea temperatures during this period can range from around 14 to 20 degrees Celsius (57 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit).

Diving in False Bay and Simon’s Town

Diving in Cape Town is extremely weather-dependent and requires a bit of flexibility. We contacted several dive operators in advance to book our spots. Then they'd text us about a day before once the weather conditions were ideal and had enough people to go out diving.

One of the general dive centers I recommend is Into the Blue dive center. They are conveniently located at Sea Point, Cape Town. I chose them when I visited Cape Town the very first time, and I chose them again during our visit.

Diving the Kelp Forest

We were picked up in front of the dive center and drove all the way to Simon’s Town. It's approximately a 45-minute scenic coastal drive from the city center.

Simon's Town, located on the Cape Peninsula, is known for its proximity to False Bay and the diverse marine ecosystems it offers, including kelp forests, cape fur seals, and African penguins (Boulders Beach).

Our typical dive day consisted of two dives. Our first dive was a relaxed dive in one of the local kelp forests, and for our second dive, we went a bit further towards False Bay and visited a colony of cape fur seals.

“Diving into a kelp forest is like visiting a mystical alien planet from a Star Wars movie.”

Kelp forests are biodiversity hotspots, providing a complex and three-dimensional habitat for various marine species. Fish, invertebrates, and other algae find refuge among the kelp, using it as a hiding place from predators and a habitat for reproduction.

Kelp forest dives are supposed to be relatively easy shallow dives; however, depending on the visibility and the surge (rhythmic, back-and-forth movement of water), they can be quite challenging to navigate. As kelp canopies are so dense, you’ll have to use your hands to slice your way through.

While seal diving isn’t ideal in a kelp forest, it is not uncommon to see them swimming through the kelp forest to either hide from predators or search for food. While kelp forests are not the primary habitat for great whites, these sharks may pass through or inhabit areas in proximity to kelp-rich coastal zones. Only the lucky ones get to see them.

Diving with Cape Fur Seals

After exploring the magical kelp forest of Simon’s Town, we jumped back on our RIB and headed towards a big rock occupied by a colony of cape fur seals.

Out of all the marine life I have photographed so far, cape fur seals were the most challenging subjects. While they look lazy and grumpy on the surface, as soon as they hit the water, they become the most agile water animals. They’re basically hyperenergetic water doggos.

Photographing them is a real challenge as they swim incredibly fast and don’t stop even for a mere moment. They tend to be skittish face to face, but as soon as you turn your head away, they start biting your tank.

They are super cute and curious but cautious at the same time. As with most marine wildlife, you don’t approach them; you let them approach you and see what happens!

Although seals are one of the main attractions, cold water environments boost a whole new level of unique coral ecosystems. Typically, vibrant coral reefs are commonly associated with warm tropical waters, while South Africa is an exception to this generalization.

Chasing Sharks in Cape Town

Cape Town and its surrounding waters, particularly along the coastline of South Africa, are known for hosting a diverse range of shark species.

The region is recognized as a hotspot for shark diving. Blue and mako sharks are frequent visitors amongst great whites and bronze whaler sharks. Sevengill and pyjama sharks are often found near or inside kelp forests.

I had been dreaming about photographing blue and mako sharks for a very long time. In order to do so, we went to Shark Explorers in Simon’s Town.

Blue and mako sharks are true pelagic species; they primarily inhabit the open ocean, away from the coast and continental shelves.

We had a long 4-hour journey on the open ocean before reaching the first chumming point. Conditions were very rough the previous few days prior to our trip.

Although weather conditions have improved, riding the Atlantic Ocean on a small boat past the Cape of Good Hope is never pleasant. Make sure to pack warm clothing and towels and take seasick pills even if you’re not usually exposed to seasickness.

Shark Explorers provided drinks, sandwiches, and fruits, so we didn't have to worry about that.

Long story short, we were chumming all day long, and we still ended up without a single shark sighting. After a long day out in the ocean, we returned disappointed and exhausted, even though we did not even jump in the water once. I guess it’s yet another lesson of how unpredictable nature is!

Nevertheless, we had one of the most amazing encounters with sevengill sharks the following day - and I eventually managed to photograph blue sharks under the most pristine conditions in the Azores a few months after this trip.

Off the beaten track - Diving with Sevengill Sharks

Usually, dive centers don’t reimburse money if there’s no shark activity, as it’s never guaranteed. However, one of our instructors was kind enough to add an extra dive for free the following day as we did not see any blue or mako sharks on our trip.

Sevengill sharks were frequent visitors to False Bay. However, their number has drastically declined in recent years due to overfishing, habitat loss, and climate change.

While I did not have any expectations, in the end, luck was on our side, and a few individuals turned up in the harbor near Simon’s Town during our last week. Taking advantage of this opportunity, our skipper took us to the harbor, where we dropped silently into the water.

Simon’s Town is a naval base, and as such, diving in the harbor is prohibited, so we had to be quiet and careful.

We swam under the docked boats to reach an abandoned, old, and rusty cargo ship waiting to be chopped up. The water was emerald green, and visibility was very poor. Ernest took a bag of chum out of his pocket, and he had just started creating a scent trail when a big, 10-foot-long Sevengill shark appeared and was shortly followed by two somewhat smaller individuals.

These ancient-looking sharks are characterized by a unique and primitive appearance, featuring a broad head, large eyes, and a single, spine-like dorsal fin located closer to the tail.

Their distinctive seven gill slits allow them to efficiently extract oxygen from the water, providing adaptability to a range of environments, including shallow coastal waters and deep offshore regions.

Sevengill sharks are known for their opportunistic feeding habits, preying on a variety of marine organisms, including fish, seals, rays, and even carrion.

That being said, these sharks don’t respect personal space at all. We had to constantly redirect them away from us as they seemed high on the fish scent in the water.

Luckily, a small push on top of their heads did the trick. We spent about an hour with them before returning back to the harbor. Such an unexpected encounter!

Other things to do around Cape Town

Cape Town truly is a diver's paradise, but there are a lot of other things to do while you're there as well.

Here's a quick recap of some of the things that you can enyjoy during your time there.

Whale watching

If you're interested in marine megafauna, the austral summer is also whale season in Cape Town.

Southern right whales migrate to the coastal waters during this time, offering opportunities for whale watching between June and November.

Hiking Table Mountain National Park

Hiking Table Mountain is a popular outdoor activity in Cape Town, South Africa, offering breathtaking views of the city, surrounding landscapes, and the Atlantic Ocean.

Unlike us, make sure to pick a sunny, cloudless day and start the hike early in the morning. For a lazier alternative, take the Cable Car that goes all the way to the top.

Eating your way around Cape Town

Eating in Cape Town is a gastronomic delight that mirrors the city's rich cultural tapestry and diverse culinary influences. The vibrant food scene caters to every palate, from fine dining establishments overlooking the Atlantic Ocean to bustling markets celebrating local flavors.

Our personal favorites, the city's food markets, the iconic Old Biscuit Mill, and the lively V&A Food Market are culinary hubs where global and local flavors converge.

Great White Shark Cage Diving

One of the most renowned locations for this experience is Gansbaai, near Cape Town, which is often referred to as the "Great White Shark capital of the world."

Most dive centers offer trips based on weather conditions and shark activity.

While diving around Cape Town, South Africa, can be challenging due to rough conditions and cold water, it presents a huge variety of ocean wildlife and unique cold water underwater ecosystems worth witnessing.

As a prime dive destination with rich cultural roots, incredible culinary experiences, and beautiful landscapes, South Africa will always be at the top of my dive destination list, and I bet this won't be the last time I visited this country.